Tin Shack Restoration
A Series Land Rover and motorcycle hobby run amuck…………..
somebody of the german Landrover Forum http://www.blacklandy.de posted a link to your blog. Its – wonderful -. Most of these guys enjoy getting black oily fingers after work, specially the ones of the Series section.
Keep on enjoying these wonderful cars.
Greetings from Germany, Ruediger
hello i looking for a adapter for a om617 mercedez 5 cyl diesel to put on a 1967 land rover 109 series 2a whit 2.6 nada gas engine and manual trans i what to kep the land rover engine please advice
I don’t make the adapter plates for the Mercedes conversions………mine came from Jim Young at Series Trek, but unfortunately he no longer makes them (for a while he was making them on a manual Bridgeport mill……staggering amounts of time to to make one plate). The only person that I know of currently in the business of building and selling Mercedes conversion kits for Series Rovers is Robert Davis in Virginia. I’ve only seen photos but there has been a lot of banter on the usual suspect forums about the kit. Robert can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Good luck with the conversion, it’s a great combination!
Hi, I noticed that the Benelli tank you used on the GS750 cafe racer you built, looks a lot smaller than I had imagined. Is it a smaller tank, or is the gs750 just a larger motercycle than what I’ve otherwise seen it mounten on? (e.g. the Docs chops Virago)
I’m 99.9% sure that all of the old Benelli 250/350 tanks are the same size…….I’ve seen quite a few and they all have the same mounting points, center tunnels, etc. I think what makes the tank look smaller on the GS than say Docs XV750 is the “longish” top tube on the GS 750 “L” model. This was Suzukis attempt at a chopper……longer forks, longer backbone, mini ape-hanger bars…….not the best platform for a cafe style bike.
Do you ever sell parts?
I’m looking (ie NEED) a 2.25/2.5 Rover diesel engine.
I have a Series III 88 diesel, engine blew up 🙁
I’d do something like a Mercedes conversion, but can’t afford it at the moment.
Would do a Rover V8 conversion, I can get Rover V8 engines pretty cheap at the junk yard, but im sure anything other than using an original spec engine will cost a lot… charges add up quickly!
if you have or know of anyone selling a 2.25/2.5 (I guess even just a long block would be ok) I would I highly appreciate it!
Thanks and nice website/blog
OMG! Eddy Merckx called, he wants his bike back!
An orange Colnago with Campy record…. WOW! beautiful!
Thanks…………but Eddy will have to pay up to get this one back!!!
Sorry, but I don’t know of any 2.25/2.5′ s available out there that are ready to drop in. Have you tried Ike Goss at Pangolin 4×4? Maybe poke around the Land Rover Exchange for one?
Good luck with the search,
Love the ‘Piner’ scrambler and was hoping to do something over time myself and have been looking for mods that have been done to EFI version and yours is the closest. Did you get the seat and fenders from Hammarhead? Did you get the Scrambler as is? Any info on how to get that seat and fenders would be great!!! Great site, great pics.
Thanks in advance,
Thanks for the compliments on the Jack Piner Scrambler. I did purchase the bike bone stock in 2012 from my local Triumph dealer and did the conversion myself. The fenders, Zard low pipe, and LED blinkers came from Hammarhead…….and it looks like they’ve been closed up for some time now, bummer, they had some cool ideas and nice product. I have no idea what happened there.
-The seat is a stock Triumph gel seat that I found on ebay, I pulled the cover off and shortened the pan about 4 inches then had a local upholsterer reconstruct the foam and cover.
-Alloy fenders can be purchased from either 7 Metal West (http://www.7metalwest.com)or Speed & Sport (http://www.speedandsport.com/).The rear that I just installed on my ’71 T100 Desert Sled came from Speed & Sport…..but check out 7 Metal West too, they do some off the charts fenders with center ribs and in copper or brass……very cool.
-EFI tune was done by the dealer, it’s the same tune used for the 2-into-1 Arrow pipe installation.
-The LED brake light came from Custom Dynamics (http://www.customdynamics.com/), it works really well and is super bright, but I like the looks of the one that Lossa Engineering offers better (http://www.lossaengineering.com/shop/lossa-l-e-d-tail-light/).
-The handlebars are another ebay find, just some NOS ’70’s vintage MX bars. I would highly recommend a bar from Front Street Cycle in stainless. I bought a bar from them for the ’71 T100, their stainless desert sled Webco reproductions…..they’re off the charts nice, just beautifully made. Get them at Front Streets ebay store (http://www.ebay.com/sch/frontstreetcycle/).
-Misc. stuff, grips are Oury MX, rear view mirror is a Joker Machine bar-end piece, right side cover is off a Yellow Bonneville painted flat black, rear leather bag is a Brooks bicycle tool bag, side plate mount I just made out of some stainless plate I had in the shop, and the countershaft sprocket cover obviously came from Mule Motorcycles (the nicest countershaft cover available).
I think that covers it………let me know if you need any other info., and if you’re still looking for a Scrambler in a couple of months this one will be for sale.
Do you do restorations? I’m looking for a company to restore a ’66 Series II, 88″. Trying to determine if that is something your outfit does.
I do restore trucks, however this is still more or less a hobby/part time thing for me, so turn around time is an issue. If you’re looking for a fairly quick turn around and high quality work I would refer you to either Lanny Clark on the east coast or Ike Goss on the west coast……….arguably the two best Series Land Rover restorers in the country. If you’re doing some of the work yourself and need a bulkhead, rear tub, etc. restored I can turn those around pretty quickly.
Thanks for the inquiry,
Hi – love the triumph daytona – is it going to be for sale?
Thanks very much, the Triumph was for sale…….looks like it’s been spoken for.
Thanks for the interest,
Nice work fellas. Was wondering if you would share the paint color/code on Greenhorn……I am restoring a Type 1 aka VW beetle and that color would sure look nice.
Chris in California
I’m afraid that color was a “mix to taste” batch. The original color is Series II Land Rover Pastel Green, codes are:
Dupont – 38504A
Glasurit – ROV605
PPG Deltron – 46250
The actual Land Rover color is a bit too “green” for me……..one of my favorite old car colors is a Volvo color that was used on the mid 60’s Amazon wagons simply called Light Green (91), but a little too light. Anyhow, we mixed BMW Alpine White into the Rover Pastel Green and shot some test panels until we hit what you see on the Greenhorn bike……something in the middle of the Rover and Volvo colors…..completely a “yeah, that looks pretty cool” color mix. I really think that old Volvo Light Green 91 would look pretty damn nice on a vintage Beetle just as it is………have your local paint store mix up a test batch and try it out.
Good luck with the restoration,
Wow! Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
So very impressed with your vision and execution of the restoration of the ”71 Triumph Daytona.
I hope this is not too much of an imposition but I have a similar project underway and was wondering if you might share the details of tire sizes / makes for both front and back?
Once again my congratulations on a great build.
Sorry for the late reply……
Front tire: Ensign Trials Universal 4.00 – 19
Rear Tire: Dunlop D606 120/90 – 18
Just a quick question, i saw your truck on the BAT auction and LOVE it. I wish i could bid , but right now is not the time. The question is, with the engine change from stock what sort of fuel milage are you gettting and can you run bio diesel ?
thanks for your time
The 109 returns low to mid 20’s for mileage, that’s running around the city of Burlington. I think it’s safe to assume that extended highway travel at 55 to 65 mph would get that number closer to 30. I’m sure it would run on bio, though I haven’t tried it…..I’ve been driving diesel trucks for 20 years now and been tempted to try bio diesel, but observing others experience with it makes my very wary of putting my own engines through that test.
Where are you? I’m very interested in the 109 Pickup in the BaT auction, and would like to factor shipping costs that I’ll have to pay into my bid.
PS: Magnificent restoration. You can be proud of your work.
Thanks Daniel, I’m in South Burlington, Vermont, 05403.
I love the T100 so went out and got a 73 been working on it for 8 months now slowy coming along Have gone for the single flatslide 34mm carb cant wait to take it vmx racing with my 1977 RM370 Thanks for the inspiration
Sounds like a fun project…….Although I think I would stick with the old 370 for the VMX racing……the old Triumphs are a real handful. I actually raced an RM370 when they were new back in ’77………what a great bike, my only complaint was that I kept burning my left inner knee on that expansion chamber……I had to learn to keep my right knee out in left turns!
I sold my 1995 Range Rover to Leandro Vazquez recently and he said to give you a call as I’m installing a Mercedes OM617 in a 1970 Bugeye Land Rover using a Robert Davis kit. I hesitate to bother you so I thought I’d post my two questions:
What pusher fans do you like for radiator cooling and how did you hinge the center console to flip up for access to the overdrive dipstick (I followed the Bring-A-Trailer auction).
Sorry for the late reply. I did not install any electric fan on my Mercedes conversion, I left the engines stock fan in place. I did install a puller fan in back of a 200TDi radiator on a TDi conversion into a 109…..it was a Spal fan (Spal 30100400 16″ Straight Blade Low Profile Fan) and worked very nicely.
On the center console I mounted the Tuffy box directly to the seat box cover, made a few stand-off spacers and some rubber grommets to isolate the box. The entire unit, box & cover, slide forward and lift out of the truck, best done from the passenger side. If you’re one that loads a center console with electronics, spares, shackles, spare ammo, etc…..you may want a different solution. I typically just carry license, reg., and the winch controller in the Tuffy so it’s an easy lift out.
Good luck with the conversion, it makes for a wonderful driving Series truck.
750L outstanding! Frame not ideal is an understatement. Building a gs1100l. Curious about the challenges with the Benelli tank. Specs make it look ideal for width of tubes. Would you choose a different tank? How much narrowing needed? Any other hints or tricks.
The backbone and external frame hoops had to be cut out and lowered so that the rear of the tank would sit correctly…….no narrowing was necessary. You could also choose to alter the tank center tunnel……I did the frame because heavy round tubing that’s easy to access is far easier to work with than the thin metal of an old fuel tank. The only other tank I would consider would be a GS 750 E version and maybe add a race type filler…..I love the shape of those tanks, Google #34 GS1000 Superbike, Cooley’s Yoshimura built rocket!
First and foremost – I am blown away with the quality and execution of your Series restorations! Really great work!
I have a question around the 200tdi series conversion: I am strongly considering this modification on our 1964 S2A Pickup. I would like to stay with the stock transmission and upgrade the transfer box to the Ashcroft high ratio kit. Do you know if this set up will work with my standard 4.7 axles (non-Salisbury)?
Thanks very much for the compliments. Yes, the 200TDi/Ashcroft/standard axles will work, but the week point will be that rear axle/diff. I would recommend the purchase of a rear Salisbury (Ike @ Pangolin seems to have them by the dozen!) for the project to handle the extra torque of the 200. You might also consider a reman Series 3 gearbox from Rovers North……..full synchro and a bit more stout than a fatigued early 2A box.
Well thank you,
That has been a wonderful night shift, helped pass a very quiet night 😉
Great website. I will be recommending it to my gear head friends that’s for sure.
Lovely workmanship and a great source of inspiration as well.
Hi there. Writing from Australia & thanks for your tutorial,
Very good however my problem is where the spokes meet the main frame as it has cracked right across & needs extreme pressure to hold that small section down.
I am not sure of a glue that will be strong enogh to withstand this pressure and if there is, holding it down will be a problem.
Any suggestions please.
Without seeing the wheel it’s tough to solve that problem. I’ve never run into a wheel that was forcing any of the spokes out like you say……….possible damage at the hub?
The PC7 product is very strong once set. Your challenge sounds like it’s going to be designing a jig to hold the spokes in place while the epoxy sets…….shouldn’t be too difficult, I would stick with wood and c-clamps to avoid and other damage to the wheel. Sorry I’m not of much help on this one!
Good luck with the project,
What do you do for doors on your series restorations ? Do you refurbish them or.is there a quality built door that you use ?
I rebuild/restore the original doors. They’re a pretty simple thing to repair……gently peal off the aluminum skins, cut out the bad metal and replace. I think Rovers North sells door frame angle pieces that can be cut to size, or take a sample to a local sheet metal guy and have some lengths made. The re-pop doors are ok, but most are a series 3 design only. https://www.roversnorth.com/productdesc.aspx?code=chas24&type=0&eq=
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